New Fabric, New Jacket
In the development stages of the Deep Cut Blazer, Tunde shared sketches from the namesake collection she had during her time in Scotland a decade ago. Although her brand is shuttered, beautiful samples and well fitting patterns remained, forming the base of our latest release, and showing just how different a jacket can feel when cut from a unique fabric.
When selecting materials, clients will very often default to the same type of material we selected for the sample. There are exceptions, but they are few. This is evidence of the trust my clients place in me to choose well, which I appreciate, but sometimes I dream of exploring other options.
To inspire you to take advantage of the wide, wonderful world of possibilities, I want to explore the results we can achieve through alternate fabric choices, hopefully encouraging unique versions of our timeless collection in your imagination, and on our work table.
1) Weather Appropriateness
During the selections process it is important to consider the intended season of wear so the warmth of the jacket and its ability to bear the elements are well aligned. The Box Pleat Trench in a bouncy two-ply linen would be stunning when the springtime sun is shining. In climates that receive more rainfall, a water repellent gabardine would keep you feeling polished and protected. And if you’d like to wear it in the cooler months, a wool cashmere coating with extra insulating interior layers would winterize.
2) Fit for Purpose
Sometimes you need a piece for a very specific situation and the right fabric selection can contribute so much to feeling comfortable and confident in your setting. The Bluff Pocket Blazer cut from a navy pinstripe feels boardroom ready, an intricately beaded mesh transforms it into the perfect event circuit eye-catcher, and denim makes it feel casual enough for weekend errands with the kids.
3) Versatility
Many of our clients are looking to invest in a timeless wardrobe workhorse, able to bounce from one outfit and situation to the next with the ease of eternal versatility. The best way to ensure this adaptability is by choosing a neutral coloured fabric like brown, black, or grey that will fly under the radar, allowing you to wear it more frequently. If there is a pattern to the fabric, make sure it is subtle, and carefully consider the pieces you already own and how this new jacket will mix and match with your existing wardrobe.
4) Style Category
A material swap-out can result in a completely new vibe for a jacket. In black lambskin, the Double Zip Moto feels edgy, biker, or rocker, but try it in a pastel boucle and it feels decidedly feminine. White cotton twill would make it feel minimal, and in red plaid, completely punk.
5) Ease of Care
If we’ve done our job well you’ll be wearing your custom jacket constantly, and with frequent wear comes garment care. Fabric choice can certainly play a role in your garment’s longevity and how easy it is to keep clean and looking its best. Take the Two Button Overcoat for example. Visually textured wool, like a check pattern or subtle heathering can hide a splash of slush much better than a smooth, even, pattern-free option. A snug weave is better for durability than a satin weave and could reduce the chances of snags or tears. The value of a colour is also to be considered, with mid-toned options hiding pet hair and lint far better than very light or very dark hues.
This flexibility and personalization available to us as a custom clothing maker is so valuable to me. With individualized fabric selection we are able to take into account your lifestyle, wardrobe, location, fashion sense, even how much free time you have, to create something that truly serves you.
Maker: Tunde Kolebaba
Models: Anneke Forbes + Tunde Kolebaba
Photos: Emma Palm
