Gang’s All Here
Excited to have recently completed a full sample size run of our Bluff Pocket Blazer! Fittings have picked up as the temperatures have cooled off and it’s been really fun having so many samples of our work for clients to try on and be inspired by throughout the creation process. Although the blazer has been in development for what feels like forever, I’m so proud of the beautiful new features we introduced along the way.
1) New Upgrade Options
This range of jackets marks the introduction of some very special upgrade options: custom printed fabric from Natalie Gerber, multiple inside pockets, subtle but stunning piping along the inside facing, a hand-canvased front panel, the option of printed and silk linings, functional sleeve buttonholes, and personalized monogramming.
These optional upgrades feel true to my original vision for the brand as a collection of exceptionally special pieces, personal to each woman who invests in one. They allow for endless creativity and a fun and fulfilling process for my clients, me, and my team. In the past, I was nervous that offering such labour-intensive details would sky-rocket costs and truncate accessibility, but introducing tiered pricing based on selections allows for accessibility without limiting luxury for those who appreciate its value.
2) Size Inclusivity
As a made-to-measure business, we’ve always been proud of our ability to make perfectly fitting outerwear for women of any size, shape, age, or ability. But for the first time we have in-stock base samples to fit bust sizes 31” through 51” (2XS - 4XL equivalent), providing the same shopping experience regardless of dress size.
A lot of time and attention has been paid to the fit of this blazer as we extended our patterns outside of straight sizing. We took into account previous client insights and how fullness is concentrated in specific areas, as opposed to applying a blanket grade on all sizes in the range. Our pattern shape transitions as it goes up in size and grading placement was adjusted between straight and extended. For example, we kept the shoulder width and above bust area slimmer, while adding to the bicep and body for a jacket that fits more women more often. Clients’ exuberant appreciation of our thoughtful grading placement has added next level joy to my job.
3) Improved Fit
I’ve touched on this in previous posts, but want to reiterate that the base patterns have been given a fit upgrade that means better fitting jackets faster. As we create jackets for clients, I begin to see repetitive edits that need to be made. We applied these adjustment trends to our patterns, resulting in a proprietary, from-scratch fit you won’t find elsewhere.
One interesting example is my decision to lengthen the centre back seam at shoulder blade height. It is human nature to stand straight and tall when being measured or evaluated by another’s eye. Our fit models, myself, and some clients' posture was more upright in fittings than our natural day-to-day stance. I hadn’t noticed an issue in previous designs, but the vents on this style just wouldn’t lie flat when worn. I had one client come in for alterations and we both experienced stomach flips when I took out my shears and cut a slice across the back of her beautiful jacket at this height. The discomfort was immediately replaced with relief when we saw the vents fall neatly into place, as the back length opened up about 1/2”. We replaced the back panels for her and the altered result was a perfect fit!
Want to see the new improved jackets for yourself? Click here to get in touch and let’s create something special together!
Jacket: Bluff Pocket Blazer
Photos: Emma Palm
